Lecture Notes - Meteo 022 - Fall 2001
Lecture 26 - 27-Nov
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Human control of beaches
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Why control a beach?
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Littoral drift
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Natural
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Barrier islands edging along - Chatham, MA
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Barrier islands retreating inland - High Island, TX
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Human modified - show figure 72 page 233 W+B
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One human beach construction blocks littoral drift
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So beach vanishes "downstream" i.e. DOWNDRIFT
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So more human effort is needed to put the beach back
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Combined (a typical example) - show figure 71 page 222 W+B
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Natural
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Barrier island edges along
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Closing a natural pass (gap, inlet, etc)
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Which was in use as a harbor entrance.
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Human
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So people put up jetties to stop the drift
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Creating sand convergence "updrift"
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and sand divergence "downdrift"
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So the beach "downdrift" of the pass vanishes
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Resulting problems
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Passes in barrier islands move
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Recreational beaches vanish
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Coastal buildings undercut
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Beach front property moves inland
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Beach front roads undercut
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More on this in the last lecture
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How to control a beach?
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Rules of the road
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Sand transported by wave induced turbulence - show beach erosion hatteras
mapquest map
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So it starts moving where the turbulence begins
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Continues drifting with the waves as long as there IS turbulence
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And settles out where the turbulence ends
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Taking action just moves the problem
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If you stop erosion in one place
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It becomes worse in another
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Who do you save?
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How do you explain it to those you destroy?
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More on this in the last lecture
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Net littoral drift
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Sand moving into a strip of beach from one side
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minus sand moving out at the other side
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The goal is to make net littoral drift zero everywhere
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Nature won't let us
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But we can pick our poison
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Jetties - show figure 72 page 233 W+B
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Stop drift
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So there is more net drift "updrift"
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and less net drift "downdrift"
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If you need jetties
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to keep a pass open
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or to protect a port
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You need to install a sand-transfer plant
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Sand-transfer plants
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Humans moving sand from one side of a jetty (or set of jetties)
to the other
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Dredge up sand updrift of the jetty system
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Pump it downdrift in a pipeline OR barge it downdrift
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Dump it downdrift of the jetty system
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Expect to move 100,000 or more cubic meters of sand per year
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Pipelines allow continuous dredging
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but take a lot of building
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But give continuous movement
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So downdrift beaches don't come and go
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Barging allows only intermittent dredging
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so you get intermittent movement of sand
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and downdrift beaches come and go
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NOT very popular with the beachgoers and property owners
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Beach nourishment systems
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Mine sand somewhere
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Dunes
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or bothersome sandbars
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or wherever
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Truck or barge the sand in
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Dump it on the beach
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Bulldoze it flat
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Examples